Avoiding pruning errors is easy when you know the appropriate pruning techniques. And, more importantly, why you prune a tree or shrub.
Tree and shrub pruning are done for a variety of reasons, such as:
- Reducing The Size Of The Plant,
- Opening The Canopy,
- Removing Obstacles,
- Improving The Shape, And
Removing Dead Or Damaged Growth.
- Whatever the reason, pruning should be done correctly to ensure the health and ongoing vitality of the tree or shrub.
Arborists and aesthetic trimmers are trained to understand the growth patterns and physical structures of trees and shrubs.
First, they evaluate the overall shape of the plant.
Then removes or changes branches that pose only a risk to plant health, but also to people and your property.
It moves away from the general form and character.
Since each pruning incision is a wound to the plant. One key to the success of the pruning process is to make as few cuts as possible to achieve the desired result. The result is a naturally shaped, beautiful and healthy plant.
PRUNE IN PROPER TIME
First, you should know that you’re pruning at the right time of year.
Winter pruning has many benefits. Winter is a sleeping season for plants and trees in southeastern Queensland. And it is the perfect time for pruning most trees and shrubs.
Not only does it exacerbate less stress for the plant, but you also see the branch structure and you are less likely to spread harmful pathogens. Trees heal faster in spring when the bud is pruned before it breaks.
Avoid pruning in autumn. Pruning cuts can, unfortunately, stimulate new growth as temperatures fall to freezing point.
Trees and shrubs reduce energy production when the growing season ends, so that in autumn new growth uses the stored energy reserves of a plant.
Returning from the freezer means wasting the energy used for this growth.
Do not cut the leaves and flower buds.
Autumn pruning can clean the leaf and flower buds that a tree has arranged during summer growth. These buds stay asleep in winter and bloom the following spring.
If you remove these sleeping buds, you run the risk of losing the spring flowers and the plant will have to use more energy to produce spare buds instead of greens. For example, forest roses and conifers will be pruned in the best way at the end of the summer before putting buds next year.
If you prune trees and shrubs in spring in late spring or early spring, you will face a similar lack of flowers. Instead, wait after you bloom before making your pruning cuts.
Do not prune when trees are susceptible to pests and diseases. Most importantly, if you make pruning cuts at the wrong time – even if there are good cuts that avoid the most common mistakes described here — you risk leaving your plants and trees susceptible to disease pathogens that spread through insects or infect them.
For example, in southeastern Melbourne, oak paleness and Dutch elm disease spread with insects drawn to open wounds on trees (such as fresh pruning cuts). To prevent the spread of these deadly tree diseases, avoid pruning during the hot months when insects are active.
Fix pruning cuts
When this tree tries to save it from the header cuts, watch out for the shoots that grow throughout the entire branch.
One of the most common pruning errors is flush cutting. This occurs when the tree trunk is aligned with the bark of the tree body or the bark of the larger branch to which it is attached.
Although it looks clean and tidy, a flush cut removes the branch collar, which is a tissue area needed to create a seal ingress in the pruning segment. Since the plant cannot close on the wound, the flush cutting leaves an opening for harmful insects and pathogens to enter and damage or kill the plant.